Old-looking Levi's are everywhere, but not every faded pair on the rack is actually old. Levi's left a trail of small details behind: tabs, tags, patches, buttons and seams that changed over the decades. Here is how to tell if Levi's are vintage, what each clue can and cannot tell you, and how to put them together.
Quick answer: To tell if Levi's are vintage, check several clues together. A red tab reading "LEVI'S" in all capitals (Big E) points to before 1971. No care tag suggests the early 1970s or earlier. Redline selvedge on the outseam usually means before the mid 1980s. "Made in USA" on the tag usually means before 2004. Reissues copy many of these details, so no single clue is proof.
How to tell if Levi's are vintage: the quick checklist
Start outside, then turn the jeans inside out. Check these five spots:
- The red tab on the right back pocket.
- The patch on the back of the waistband.
- The care tag inside, if there is one.
- The number stamped on the back of the top button.
- The outseam, back pocket hems and leg hems.
Real vintage pairs have clues that agree with each other. A Big E tab next to a crisp modern care tag means a reissue, not a 1960s original. For fit questions, see our Levi's 505 vs 550 vs 559 fit guide.
What does Big E mean on Levi's?
Levi's added the red tab to the back pocket in 1936, with "LEVI'S" woven in all capital letters. In 1971 the company changed the lettering to "Levi's" with a lowercase e, to match its batwing logo. Collectors call the older version "Big E" and the newer one "small e."
So a Big E tab usually means a pair made before 1971. The catch is that Levi's has brought it back more than once. It sold "Capital E" reissue jeans in the US starting in 1992, launched the Levi's Vintage Clothing reproduction line in 1996, and put the Big E back on its premium jeans in 2018. As Levi Strauss & Co. notes in its Red Tab history, those modern Big E pairs can be spotted by their modern care tags.
What does an orange tab mean?
Levi's introduced the orange tab in the 1960s for its fashion styles, like bell bottoms and boot cuts. Orange tabs turn up most often on pairs from the late 1960s through the 1990s. Levi's has since reissued some orange tab styles, so check the care tag too.
How does Levi's care tag dating work?
The FTC issued its care labeling rule in December 1971, and care tags start showing up in Levi's in the early to mid 1970s. A pair with no care tag at all (and no stub where one was cut out) often dates to the early 1970s or before.
After that, the vintage Levi's tag is one of your best clues:
- Date code. Many tags from the 1970s through the 1990s print a small month and year code. A 1970s tag may use one digit for the year, while a 1990s tag might read 0792 for July 1992.
- Factory number. This should match the number stamped on the back of the top button.
- Tag style. Tags from the 1970s and early 80s are often thin and papery. Later tags are smoother fabric with more languages.
Are made in USA Levi's always vintage?
Not always, but it is a strong clue. Levi's closed its last two US sewing plants, in San Antonio, Texas, in January 2004, so "Made in USA" on a regular pair usually means it was sewn before then. But Levi's had been moving production overseas for years, so a pair made in Mexico can still be decades old. And Levi's later made small US-made lines, like the Made in USA 501s in Cone Mills White Oak selvedge around 2018.
Reading the lot number
The lot number is the style number: 501, 505, 517, 550 and so on. It appears on the patch and usually on the care tag, often followed by a four-digit fabric or finish code. On 501s, the patch read "501XX" until about 1968, then just "501." Levi's later brought the XX back on some pairs, so it is not a date on its own.
What does the Levi's button number mean?
Flip the top button over and you will often see a number stamped on the back. It is a factory code, not a date, and it should usually match the factory number on the care tag. The format still gives a rough age:
- A single digit or letter (like 2, 6 or W) usually points to the mid 1970s or earlier.
- Three digits (like 524 or 555) became the norm later. Sources disagree on when: some say the mid 1970s, others around 1981.
- Four digits show up on many newer pairs.
The most famous code is 555, widely linked to Levi's Valencia Street plant in San Francisco, which closed in 2002. Another common one, 524, is usually tied to El Paso, Texas. These factory lists come from collectors, not Levi's, and they do not always agree, so treat the button as a supporting clue.
How can you tell if Levi's are selvedge?
Turn up a cuff and look at the outseam. If the edge of the denim is a clean, tightly woven band with a thin red line, the jeans are selvedge, often called "redline." Cone Mills began weaving red selvedge denim for the 501 around 1927.
Levi's phased selvedge out of the 501 in the early to mid 1980s as denim moved to wider looms. Collectors date the change anywhere from 1983 to 1986. On a mainline pair, redline usually means it was made before then, but reproduction and later US-made lines use selvedge too. Most non-selvedge pairs have an overlocked outseam instead.
Do single stitch and chain stitch seams date Levi's?
Back pocket stitching
Look inside at the top hem of the back pockets. Pairs from roughly 1971 to 1977, which collectors call "66 single," were sewn there with a single-needle lockstitch. Around 1978 Levi's switched to a different stitch, so this detail can split the 1970s in two.
Chain-stitched hems
Levi's hemmed its jeans with a chain stitch for decades. It shrinks unevenly in the wash, twisting the hem into the wavy "roping" fade denim fans like. An original roped hem fits an older pair, but it does not date jeans on its own, since reproduction brands and some tailors still chain-stitch hems.
Hidden rivets
From 1937 to 1966, the rivets at the back pocket corners were covered by denim and visible only from the inside. In 1966 Levi's replaced them with bar tacks. Hidden rivets point to a pair from before 1966, or to a reproduction.
Leather patch or paper patch?
The Two Horse patch, with two horses trying to pull a pair of jeans apart, has been on Levi's since 1886. It started as real leather. In the mid to late 1950s Levi's switched the 501 to a "leather like" patch made of heavy card stock, because leather was getting expensive and did not survive automatic washing machines well.
So on a 501, a real leather patch usually means the 1950s or earlier, or a modern reproduction.
Vintage Levi's dating chart
Dates are rough, and pairs made during a changeover can mix features from two eras.
| Era | Red tab | Patch | Care tag | Other clues |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1936 to about 1971 | Big E ("LEVI'S") | Leather until the mid to late 1950s, then card stock; "501XX" until about 1968 | None | Hidden rivets until 1966, redline selvedge, single digit or letter on the button |
| About 1971 to early 1980s | Small e ("Levi's") | Card stock, "501" | Appears in the early to mid 1970s; thin, papery, date code | Redline selvedge, single-needle back pocket hems until about 1977 |
| Mid 1980s to 2003 | Small e | Card stock with lot, waist and length | Fabric tag with date code and factory number; often "Made in USA" | Overlocked outseam, three-digit button codes like 524 and 555 |
| 2004 to today | Small e; Big E on premium lines from 2018 | Card stock; leather on some reproductions | Modern tag, usually made outside the US | Selvedge mostly on premium or reproduction lines |
The same "clues that agree" approach works for tees. See how to tell if a shirt is vintage.
FAQ
Are Big E Levi's always vintage?
No. A Big E tab usually means a pair made before 1971, but Levi's has sold Big E reissues since 1992 and put the Big E back on its premium jeans in 2018. A Big E pair with a modern care tag is a reissue.
What year did Levi's stop making jeans in the USA?
Levi's closed its last two US sewing plants, in San Antonio, Texas, in January 2004. A few higher-end US-made lines came later, so "Made in USA" usually, but not always, means a pair from before 2004.
Does the number on the back of a Levi's button tell the year?
No. The button number is a factory code. A single digit or letter usually points to the mid 1970s or earlier and three digits to later pairs, but the code identifies the factory, not the year.
When did Levi's stop using selvedge denim on 501s?
Levi's phased redline selvedge out of the 501 in the early to mid 1980s, with collectors citing dates from 1983 to 1986. Selvedge Levi's made after that are usually reproduction or premium lines.
Do all vintage Levi's have a care tag?
No. Care tags started appearing in Levi's in the early to mid 1970s, after the FTC issued its care labeling rule in December 1971. Pairs made before then have no care tag at all.
Shop vintage Levi's
Levi's is one of the deepest parts of our catalog, with more than 300 pieces. At ThriftManGuy we measure every pair by hand and list the waist, inseam and rise. Browse vintage Levi's, all jeans and pants and our 90s vintage, and check the vintage sizing guide before you buy.