A good flannel is the most useful thing on the vintage rack once the weather turns. The best vintage flannel brands used heavier cloth, deeper plaids and sturdier seams than a lot of what's sold new today. Here's what makes a flannel worth buying, which labels to grab, and how to tell if a vintage flannel is actually old.
Quick answer: The best vintage flannel brands are Pendleton and Woolrich for wool, and L.L.Bean (the chamois shirt), Five Brother, Big Mac by JCPenney, Eddie Bauer and Carhartt for heavy cotton. Levi's, Wrangler, Field & Stream, St. John's Bay and Polo Ralph Lauren are solid everyday picks. Look for heavy brushed fabric, older tags, "Made in USA" and a roomy, boxy cut.
What makes a good flannel shirt?
"Flannel" describes the fabric, not the pattern. It's a soft woven cloth that has been brushed so the fibers lift into a fuzzy surface called the nap. Not every plaid shirt is flannel, and not every flannel is plaid.
Cotton vs. wool
Wool flannel is the original. It's warm for its weight, handles damp weather well and has a dry, slightly crisp feel. Cotton flannel is softer against the skin, easier to wash and far more common on the vintage rack.
Weight
Fabric weight is measured in ounces per square yard. Sources don't agree on exact cutoffs, but everyday flannel shirts are usually on the light side, while heavyweight work flannels often run 8 oz or more. For reference, L.L.Bean lists its current chamois shirt at 7.5 oz, and FiveBrother lists its current heavy flannel at 9 oz.
Brushed nap and chamois
Flannel can be brushed on one side or both. Chamois cloth is cotton brushed heavily on both sides until it feels close to suede. It's thicker and warmer than standard flannel and wears almost like a light jacket.
What are the best vintage flannel brands?
Pendleton
Pendleton Woolen Mills in Oregon started making men's wool shirts in 1924, from what it now calls Umatilla wool, named for Umatilla County. Its best-known shirt is the Board Shirt: a loop collar, two flap pockets and a straight hem. California surfers wore them in the late 1950s and 1960s, and the Beach Boys started out as the Pendletones. Older tags read "Warranted to be a Pendleton" and list virgin wool.
Woolrich
Woolrich was founded in Pennsylvania in 1830 and says it introduced its red and black Buffalo Check wool shirt in 1850. The company moved much of its production overseas in the 1970s and 1980s, so a "Made in USA" tag is a good sign of an older piece.
L.L.Bean
L.L.Bean introduced its chamois shirt in 1927, first calling it the "Leatherette" shirt, and the chamois name was in use by 1933, according to L.L.Bean's own history of the shirt. It's heavy cotton brushed on both sides, with angled chest pockets.
Five Brother
The label reads "Five Brother," singular, though most people search for Five Brothers. The brand dates to 1890 and was made for many years by M. Fine & Sons of Louisville, Kentucky. Its heavy cotton work flannels are known for triple-stitched seams, and older ones often carry a union label and "Made in USA."
Big Mac (JCPenney)
Big Mac was JCPenney's workwear label from 1922 into the 2000s. The flannels are known for big, bold plaids, bias-cut pockets, long point collars and a large yoke across the shoulders. They were sold for so long that exact dating is hard, but "Sanforized" and "Made in USA" on the tag point to older pieces.
St. John's Bay
St. John's Bay has been a JCPenney house brand since the mid-1980s. Its 80s and 90s flannels are everyday cotton plaids with a roomy cut. They aren't collector pieces, but a good one is warm, soft and easy to wear.
Eddie Bauer
Eddie Bauer started in Seattle in 1920 as an outdoor outfitter. Its 80s and 90s chamois and heavy cotton flannels are common finds and wear a lot like the L.L.Bean chamois. Look for older script-logo tags and "Made in USA."
Carhartt
Carhartt, founded in Detroit in 1889, makes heavyweight cotton flannel work shirts and quilt-lined flannel shirt jackets. Many Carhartt tags carry a small date code where the last two digits are the year.
Levi's and Wrangler
Levi's made plenty of plaid cotton flannels, and USA-made examples from the 70s through the 90s turn up regularly. Wrangler flannels lean western, with pearl snaps and a western yoke across the shoulders.
Field & Stream
The outdoor magazine's name has been licensed onto hunting and outdoor clothing for decades. 80s and 90s Field & Stream flannels are common thrift finds, usually cotton in hunting plaids and buffalo checks.
Polo Ralph Lauren
Polo Ralph Lauren flannels are usually cotton plaids with button-down collars, often with a small embroidered pony on the chest. Keep an eye out for sub-labels like Polo Country, a rugged line from roughly the late 1980s and 1990s.
Vintage flannel brands at a glance
| Brand | Material | Known for | What to look for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pendleton | Wool | Board Shirt, Lodge and Trail shirts | "Warranted to be a Pendleton," virgin wool, "Made in U.S.A." |
| Woolrich | Wool | Buffalo Check shirt (1850) | Heavy wool, red and black check, "Made in USA" |
| L.L.Bean | Cotton chamois | Chamois shirt (1927) | Angled chest pockets, cloth brushed on both sides |
| Five Brother | Heavy cotton | Triple-stitched work flannels | Union label, "Made in USA" |
| Big Mac (JCPenney) | Cotton | Bold plaids, bias-cut pockets | "Sanforized," "Made in USA," long point collar |
| St. John's Bay | Cotton | Everyday JCPenney plaids | Heavier fabric, older tag designs |
| Eddie Bauer | Cotton, chamois | 80s and 90s chamois shirts | Script-logo tag, "Made in USA" |
| Carhartt | Heavy cotton | Work flannels, quilt-lined shirt jackets | Date code on the tag |
| Levi's | Cotton | Everyday plaid flannels | "Made in USA" on older tags |
| Wrangler | Cotton | Western flannels | Pearl snaps, western yoke |
| Field & Stream | Cotton | Hunting plaids | Buffalo checks, 80s and 90s tags |
| Polo Ralph Lauren | Cotton | Button-down plaid flannels | Embroidered pony, Polo Country label |
How can you tell if a flannel is vintage?
No single detail proves a flannel's age. Stack up a few clues:
- The tag. Older labels tend to be simple woven tags with an earlier version of the logo. Compare it to the brand's current tag.
- "Made in USA." A lot of American clothing production moved overseas between the 1970s and the 2000s, so a USA tag often points to an older shirt. A few heritage brands still make some pieces here, so treat it as a clue, not proof.
- "Sanforized." This pre-shrinking process dates to the 1930s, and the word shows up on many mid-century work shirt tags.
- No care instructions. The FTC's Care Labeling Rule was adopted in 1971. A flannel with no care instructions at all often predates it.
- A WPL number. On wool shirts, "WPL" numbers were issued from 1941 to 1959. The number shows when the company registered, not when the shirt was made, but it's a strong hint.
- Stitching. Single-stitch hems are the classic t-shirt test, but on flannels stitching says more about quality than age. Better shirts use single-needle side seams (one clean row outside), and heavy work flannels often have triple-stitched seams.
- Loop collars. A thread loop at the collar is a mid-century sport shirt detail. Pendleton still puts one on the Board Shirt, so check the tag too.
- The fabric. Dense cloth with an even, worn-in softness often points to an older, well-made shirt.
How should a vintage flannel fit?
Most vintage flannels are cut boxy: straight through the body, with a full chest and roomy armholes. Some older work shirts, Big Mac included, have sleeves that run a little short for the tagged size. Treat the size on the tag as a starting point only.
The best way to shop is by measurement. Lay a flannel you like flat, measure pit-to-pit and length, then compare. At ThriftManGuy every piece is measured by hand, and each listing shows those measurements along with a condition grade. Our Vintage Sizing Guide walks through how to measure.
How do you layer a flannel for a Midwest fall and winter?
We ship from Moorhead, MN, where flannel season runs long.
- Early fall: wear a lighter cotton flannel open over a tee, like a light jacket.
- Late fall: button a heavyweight flannel or chamois over a thermal, or wear a wool shirt or quilt-lined shirt jacket as your outer layer.
- Winter: make the flannel your middle layer, over a thermal and under a parka, chore coat or duck jacket from our workwear section. For the outer layer, see our guide to the best used winter jackets.
If you want to wear a flannel over a hoodie, look for a pit-to-pit a couple of inches wider than your usual shirt.
FAQ
What is the best vintage flannel brand?
It depends on what you want. Pendleton and Woolrich are the top picks for wool, while L.L.Bean chamois, Five Brother, Big Mac and Carhartt are the go-to heavy cotton flannels.
How can I tell if my flannel is vintage?
Check the tag for an older logo, "Made in USA," "Sanforized" or no care instructions, then look at the fabric weight and construction. No single detail proves age, so look for several clues together.
What is the difference between flannel and chamois?
Chamois is a heavier cotton cloth brushed on both sides until it feels close to suede. Standard cotton flannel is usually lighter and can be brushed on just one side.
Is it Five Brother or Five Brothers?
The label reads "Five Brother," singular. Many people search for Five Brothers, but it's the same work shirt brand.
Do vintage flannels run big?
Vintage flannels are usually boxy and roomy in the body, but sleeves can run short. Compare pit-to-pit and length measurements to a shirt you already own.
Shop vintage flannels
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