If you shop vintage Levi's, you see the same model numbers over and over: 501, 505, 517, 550 and 559. They look alike in photos, but they fit very differently. Here is how they compare and how to measure a vintage pair so it fits.
Quick answer: The Levi's 505 is a regular fit with a straight leg and a zip fly. The 550 is a relaxed fit with more room in the seat and thigh and a leg that tapers toward the ankle. The 559 is relaxed straight: roomy like the 550 up top, but with a straight leg and a slightly lower rise. On vintage pairs, ignore the tag size and compare the measured waist, rise, inseam and leg opening to jeans you already own.
What is the difference between Levi's 505, 550 and 559?
All three sit in the same family as the 501, but each one changes the cut in a different spot.
| Model | Fit name | Rise | Seat and thigh | Leg shape | Leg opening (current Levi's spec) | Fly |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 501 | Original | At the waist | Regular | Straight | About 16" | Button |
| 505 | Regular | At or slightly below the waist | Regular, a little more thigh than a 501 | Straight | About 16" | Zip |
| 550 | Relaxed | Higher, sits at the waist | Roomy | Tapered | About 16.5" | Zip |
| 559 | Relaxed straight | Slightly lower than the 550 | Roomy | Straight | About 16.5" | Zip |
| 517 | Bootcut | At the waist | Slim to regular | Slight flare at the hem | About 18" | Zip |
Leg openings are for current production and vary by size. The 550 and 559 end up at almost the same opening. The difference is the path the leg takes to get there: the 550 is wide at the thigh and narrows down, while the 559 stays wide the whole way. That is why a 559 looks baggier at the shoe even though the numbers are close.
What is the Levi's 505 fit like?
The 505 is the zip fly cousin of the 501. Levi's introduced it in 1967 as a preshrunk jean, because a shrink-to-fit denim did not work well with a zipper. The early 505 was slimmer and sat lower than the 501 of the day, and it became a favorite of punk and new wave musicians in the late 1970s.
From the 1980s on, the 505 slowly got roomier and settled into what Levi's now calls the Regular Fit: a straight leg with a bit more room in the thigh than a 501. So a 1970s orange tab 505 and a 1990s 505 can wear quite differently even when the tags match.
Who it suits: average and slim to medium builds who want a classic straight jean that is not baggy. If a 501 feels tight in the thigh or you just do not want a button fly, the 505 is the easy swap.
What is the Levi's 550 fit like?
Levi's introduced the 550 in 1985 as a relaxed version of the 501, with more room in the seat, hips and thigh. It sits higher, at the natural waist, and the leg tapers toward the ankle so the hem does not pile up on your shoes.
The 550 is the jean most people picture when they think of 90s baggy Levi's. Early pairs from the late 1980s and 1990s are the ones vintage shoppers hunt for, especially Made in USA pairs and orange tab versions.
Who it suits: bigger thighs, athletic legs, and anyone who wants room up top without a wide leg at the bottom. Levi's itself points people with a bigger or more athletic build toward the 550.
What is the Levi's 559 fit like?
The 559 takes the roomy seat and thigh of the 550 and keeps the leg straight all the way down. Levi's describes it as sitting slightly lower than the 550, closer to a mid rise. Some guides date the 559 to 1985 alongside the 550, but it is far less documented, so we would not lean on a launch year to date a pair.
Who it suits: people who want the most room of the three, a straight wide leg for skate or streetwear outfits, or a relaxed jean that does not sit up at the natural waist. If a 550 feels too high in the rise or too pinched at the ankle, try a 559.
How do you read the model number on a vintage Levi's tag?
Check two places. The patch on the back of the waistband shows the lot number (505, 550, 559 and so on) plus the tag waist and length. The care tag inside, when it has one, usually repeats the lot number, often followed by a four digit code for the fabric or finish, for example 550-4891. That code tells you the wash, not the year.
Patches wear off and care tags get cut out, so on some pairs the model number is gone. In that case, go by shape and measurements: a straight leg with a regular thigh reads as a 505, a big thigh with a taper reads as a 550, and a big thigh with a straight leg reads as a 559. To work out how old a pair is from its tabs, tags and buttons, see our guide on how to tell if Levi's are vintage.
Why don't vintage Levi's tag sizes match?
A vintage tag tells you what the jeans were sold as, not what they measure today. A few things cause the drift:
- Shrinkage. Decades of hot washes and dryers shrink cotton denim. It is common for a vintage pair to measure an inch or two smaller in the waist than the tag, and the inseam can shrink too.
- Hemming. Many pairs were cut down by a previous owner, so the tag length means nothing.
- Stretching. Heavy wear can stretch a waistband out, so some pairs measure bigger than the tag.
- Modern sizing. Many modern brands run generous, so your current jeans may measure bigger than their tag. Comparing a vintage tag to a modern tag stacks two errors.
The fix is the same in every case: compare measurements, not labels. Our guide on how to buy vintage clothes online without sizing mistakes walks through the full method.
How do you measure vintage Levi's?
Grab a pair you already love, lay it flat on a table, zip and button it, and smooth it out. Measure in inches:
| Measurement | How to take it | What it tells you |
|---|---|---|
| Waist | Straight across the top of the waistband, edge to edge, then multiply by two | Your true waist size, whatever the tag says |
| Inseam | From the crotch seam straight down the inner leg to the hem | Leg length, and whether you need a cuff or will get stacking |
| Front rise | From the crotch seam up to the top of the front waistband | Where the jeans sit: high, mid or low |
| Thigh | Straight across the leg, about an inch below the crotch | How roomy the top block is; this is where a 505 and 550 differ most |
| Leg opening | Straight across the hem, then multiply by two if the listing uses full circumference | How wide the jean looks at your shoe |
Then line those numbers up with the listing. Every pair at ThriftManGuy is measured flat by hand, and the listing gives the waist, inseam and rise. If a pair measures within about half an inch of your favorite jeans in the waist and rise, you are close. If you want a looser vintage fit, go up in the thigh, not the waist. For more detail, see our vintage sizing guide.
Which fit is best for your body type?
- Slim to average build, want a clean look: 505, or a 501 if you like a button fly.
- Big thighs or athletic legs, want a neat hem: 550.
- Want the baggiest option, or a straight wide leg: 559.
- Taller or long in the torso: the higher rise of the 550 tends to sit better than the 559.
- Wearing boots: a 517 bootcut, with its wider hem.
FAQ
Is the Levi's 550 or 559 baggier?
The 559 looks baggier at the bottom because its leg stays straight, while the 550 tapers. Both have a roomy seat and thigh, and current leg openings are nearly the same, about 16.5 inches.
Is the Levi's 505 the same as the 501?
No. Both have a straight leg, but the 505 has a zip fly, was sold preshrunk from its 1967 launch, and on most later pairs has a little more room in the thigh.
Do vintage Levi's run small?
Often, yes. Years of washing shrink cotton denim, so many vintage pairs measure an inch or two smaller in the waist than the tag. Always check the measured waist, not the tag.
When did Levi's make the 550?
Levi's introduced the 550 relaxed fit in 1985. The late 1980s and 1990s pairs are the most sought after by vintage shoppers.
Which Levi's fit is best for big thighs?
The 550 or 559. Both add room in the seat and thigh. Pick the 550 for a taper and a higher rise, or the 559 for a straight leg and a slightly lower rise.
Shop vintage Levi's by fit
ThriftManGuy is based in Moorhead, MN, serving Fargo-Moorhead, and we ship nationwide. Every pair is one of one and measured by hand. Browse vintage Levi's, all jeans and pants, 90s vintage and Y2K denim, and check the vintage sizing guide before you buy.