Almost everything secondhand needs a wash before you wear it, and vintage pieces need a gentler wash than new clothes. Old cotton, aging screen prints and wool knits do not handle hot water and high heat the way modern fabrics do. Here is how to wash thrifted clothes, clear out that musty thrift store smell, and keep each piece the size it was when you bought it.
Quick answer: To wash most thrifted clothes, check the care label, test dark colors for bleeding, turn pieces inside out and wash in cold water on a gentle cycle with mild detergent. Hang or lay flat to dry. For a musty smell, run a wash with 1 cup of white vinegar, then a second wash with half a cup of baking soda, and air dry.
How to wash thrifted clothes: the first wash
Wash anything secondhand before you wear it. A first wash clears out dust, old detergent and storage smells.
- Read the care label. Follow it if it is readable. If it is faded, treat the piece as delicate.
- Test for color bleeding. Dampen a hidden spot, like an inside seam, and press a white cloth against it. If color transfers, wash that piece alone in cold water.
- Turn it inside out. This protects prints, denim color and knit surfaces from rubbing.
- Use cold water and a gentle cycle. Cold is safest for shrinkage and fading. Use a mild detergent and skip chlorine bleach.
- Air dry the first time. If a smell is still there, dryer heat can lock it in.
How do you get the musty smell out of vintage clothes?
That thrift store smell usually comes from years in closets, basements and storage bins, often mixed with old perfume or smoke. Detergent alone often does not clear it. These steps suit most washable cotton, denim and polyester. Test on a hidden spot first if you are unsure.
Step 1: Vinegar wash or soak
Run the piece through a cool wash with 1 cup of white vinegar and no detergent, or add the cup to the fabric softener slot of a normal wash. For stronger smells, soak it first in a sink or tub of cool water with about a cup of vinegar mixed in for an hour or longer, then wash.
Step 2: Baking soda wash
Wash it again with half a cup of baking soda. Keep the vinegar and baking soda in separate washes: mixed together, they fizz and mostly cancel each other out.
Step 3: Sun and fresh air
Hang it outside on a breezy day, or near an open window. Sunlight and moving air help clear lingering odors. Keep dark colors inside out and wool in the shade, since strong sun can fade dye.
For pieces you cannot wash
Seal the item in a large bag or bin with an open box of baking soda (not touching the fabric) for a couple of days, then air it out. This is a good first try for leather and dry clean only pieces.
One safety rule: never mix vinegar with chlorine bleach. The combination releases chlorine gas.
How do you wash vintage t-shirts without ruining the print?
Old screen prints are the most fragile part of a vintage tee. Hot water and dryer heat make ink brittle over time, which leads to cracking and flaking.
- Turn the shirt inside out.
- Wash cold on a gentle cycle with mild detergent, with similar colors.
- Hang it or lay it flat to dry. If you use a dryer, use low or no heat.
- Never iron directly on the print. If it needs pressing, iron it inside out on low.
Thin 80s and 90s tees are already worn in, so a gentle cycle or hand wash helps them last. Browse our vintage t-shirts.
How should you wash vintage denim?
Wash jeans less often than you think. Levi's own denim care guide suggests washing after about 10 wears unless they are visibly dirty or start to smell, and spot cleaning in between with mild soap and a damp cloth or old toothbrush.
- Turn jeans inside out and zip or button them.
- Wash in cold water with a mild detergent made for dark colors.
- Hang to dry in the shade and skip fabric softener.
Will vintage jeans shrink?
Most vintage jeans have been washed many times, so they have done most of their shrinking. A hot dryer can still pull 100 percent cotton denim tighter, often most noticeably in length. Every ThriftManGuy pair is measured by hand, and washing cold and hanging to dry is the best way to keep the waist and inseam you bought. For fit help, see our guide on how to buy vintage clothes online.
How do you wash wool sweaters?
Wool can shrink and felt with heat and rubbing, so treat it gently. Woolmark recommends hand washing in lukewarm water with a wool detergent, or using your machine's wool cycle if the care label allows it.
- Turn the sweater inside out.
- Soak it in lukewarm water with a wool detergent for about 10 minutes.
- Rinse in lukewarm water, then cold. Do not wring it; roll it in a dry towel and press out the water.
- Dry it flat in the shade, shaped back to size. Skip the dryer and never hang it wet.
Cotton and acrylic knits do not felt, but drying them flat still helps them keep their shape. Shop vintage sweaters.
How do you wash fleece?
Polyester fleece is easy to wash but sensitive to heat. High heat can damage the fibers and make pilling worse.
- Turn it inside out and wash in cold or warm water on a gentle cycle.
- Skip fabric softener. It coats the fibers and can make fleece less soft over time.
- Tumble dry on low or hang dry. Never use high heat.
- Wash it with similar items, not with towels or heavy denim, to cut down on pilling.
Cotton hoodies and sweatshirts follow similar rules, since heavy cotton can shrink in a hot dryer. For more, read our Patagonia, North Face and Columbia fleece guide, or browse hoodies and sweatshirts.
What about leather, suede and dry clean only pieces?
Keep leather and suede out of the washing machine. Wipe leather with a barely damp cloth and use a cleaner made for leather. Brush suede with a suede brush and use a suede eraser for scuffs. For serious stains, go to a leather specialist.
If a label says dry clean only, trust it, especially on tailored wool, silk or rayon.
How do you get yellowing out of old whites?
Yellow stains on old white tees, collars and underarms usually come from body oils and years in storage. An oxygen bleach soak (sodium percarbonate, sold as OxiClean and similar products) is the gentler fix.
- Test on a hidden spot first, like an inside seam or hem.
- Dissolve the oxygen bleach in warm water, using the amount on the label.
- Soak the piece for 1 to 6 hours, checking as you go. Stubborn yellowing may need a second soak with fresh solution.
- Rinse well, then wash as normal.
Do not use oxygen bleach on wool, silk or leather. Skip chlorine bleach on vintage too, since it can weaken older cotton and strip color from prints. Some old stains will not fully come out.
Vintage clothing care chart
| Fabric or item | Wash | Dry | Avoid |
|---|---|---|---|
| Graphic tees (cotton) | Inside out, cold, gentle cycle | Hang or lay flat; low heat at most | Hot water, high heat, ironing the print |
| Vintage denim | Inside out, cold, about every 10 wears | Hang in the shade | Hot dryer, fabric softener |
| Wool sweaters | Hand wash lukewarm with wool detergent, or wool cycle | Roll in a towel, dry flat in the shade | Wringing, hot water, the dryer, oxygen bleach |
| Cotton hoodies and sweatshirts | Inside out, cold | Low heat or hang | High heat |
| Polyester fleece | Inside out, cold or warm, gentle cycle | Low heat or hang | Fabric softener, high heat |
| Leather and suede | No water; wipe or brush, or use a leather specialist | Hang away from heat | Washing machine, soaking, direct heat |
| Dry clean only | Professional dry cleaner | Follow the cleaner's advice | Home washing |
How should you store vintage clothes?
- Clean before storing. Moths are drawn to dirty fabric, so wash wool before you put it away for the season.
- Fold knits. Hangers stretch out sweaters and heavy knits over time.
- Use breathable storage. Cotton garment bags or bins with some airflow beat plastic dry cleaner bags, which trap moisture.
- Keep it cool, dry and dark. Damp basements bring back the musty smell.
- Deter moths. Cedar blocks or lavender sachets near your wool can help.
FAQ
Should you wash thrifted clothes before wearing them?
Yes. Wash anything secondhand before wearing it to remove dust, old detergent and storage smells. Use cold water and a gentle cycle, and air dry it the first time.
How do you get the thrift store smell out of clothes?
Wash the piece with 1 cup of white vinegar and no detergent, then wash it again with half a cup of baking soda. Air dry it outside or near an open window, and skip the dryer until the smell is gone.
Can you put vintage t-shirts in the dryer?
You can on low heat, but air drying is safer. High heat can crack old screen prints and shrink cotton, so hang vintage tees or lay them flat.
How often should you wash vintage jeans?
Levi's suggests washing jeans after about 10 wears unless they are visibly dirty or smell. Wash them inside out in cold water and hang them to dry.
Can you use OxiClean on vintage clothes?
Oxygen bleach like OxiClean is usually fine on washable cotton and polyester if you test a hidden spot first. Do not use it on wool, silk or leather.
Shop vintage worth taking care of
Browse vintage t-shirts, jeans and pants, sweaters and hoodies and sweatshirts. Every piece is one of one.